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In How to Rebuild and Modify Ford C4 and C6 Automatic Transmissions, author George Reid walks readers through the process step-by-step, from removing the transmission from the vehicle, to complete disassembly and cleaning, to careful reassembly, to proper re-installation and road testing. In addition, if the transmission will be used in a high-performance or competition situation, the author includes the various steps required to bolster the unit's strength, using commonly available aftermarket components. Each chapter contains special notes, sidebars, and technical tips to assist the reader at every step in the process. Some refer to safety, others to time-saving advice, and others to small modifications that may aid long-term durability or help the builder tailor the shift firmness. The author's extensive research and experience with these popular transmissions has resulted in a well-rounded full-color technical guide to their revitalization. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. Show details. Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account These Ford transmissions can be torn apart and rebuilt in your home garage or workshop using common hand tools. Very few specialized tools are required. This book reviews the long production life of both the C4 and C6 transmissions, and includes the various production changes you need to be aware of while building yours. Of these two popular Ford automatic transmissions, the C4 encompassed the most changes ranging from input shaft and forward clutch size to main case revisions, which means you will want to arm yourself with detailed information in order to build the best C4 possible, with the best sources for parts and accessories for these classic automatics.

Because the larger, heavy-duty C6 transmission is the most rugged and dependable 3-speed automatic transmission Ford has ever produced, you can build even more durability and efficiency into yours. If high performance is your goal, advice, tips, and tricks are included to strengthen and fine-tune the capabilities of both the C4 and C6.He enjoys restoring and building Fords. George has written a number of books for CarTech.If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support ? To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Emmet 3.0 out of 5 stars It's a high-level overview. If you try and use this manual in your rebuild, you'll be frustrated and disappointed by the magnitude of instruction that's left out.At the very least with this book, I believe you will have an idea what may be wrong with your auto-trans when you take it to your mechanic, if you don't want to tackle things yourself. If you have an older Ford product with one of these models, this book would be good insurance to have on-hand before you need it. Buy yourself a copy. It is worth it!It has distilled the most important aspects of the rebuild including torque specifications into one easy to read and follow book. It does fall short on some details like positioning the kick down lever. There are no pictures or description about how to make sure it is positioned correctly. It also, doesn't have an exploded view of the assembly. I used my shop manual in conjunction with this book to do the rebuild. As well as watching some YouTube videos. I would not rely on this book alone, but I am glad I purchased it.Not even a half way decent resource for variations in the C6 throughout its long production run.

A real disappointmentI was hoping for more info about DIY mods and E4OD parts updates(interchange data for low gear set and fully rollerized pieces from late E4OD), but the book stuck to off the shelf, aftermarket parts. Lots of good pics of transmissions going together. Someone rebuilding a Ford automatic transmission would be well advised to consult brown shoe productions, for excellent website support. I rebuilt my C6 behind my diesel and it runs great. You can do it too!Great sections covering various factory valvebodies and intermediate servos; good for reference.Large glossy prints, easy to follow procedures, common sense directives and tips on modifications. I had worked on several C4's years ago, but needed something to guide me with a recent rebuild. Wish I would have had this book back then. I would recommend this to someone new to mechanics or to the experienced enthusiast.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Der Versand ging bei mir etwas langer, aber der Freundliche Lieferant hat gleich einen Ersatz gesendet, da das erste Exemplar auf dem Versandweg verschollen ist. Deshalb auch 5 SterneSorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Tout y est decrit, comment se rendre compte si telle ou telle piece est endommagee, et l'entretien moins pousse y figure egalement (notamment apprendre a re-regler les bandes d'embrayage, vidange, changer le filtre). Je ne me suis pas encore lance dans les gros travaux, mais en tout cas le bouquin est vraiment interessant et complet. ATTENTION, uniquement en Anglais !Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Habe noch nie ein Getriebe zerlegt oder Uberholt.Dies war mein erstes und es lauft super nur mit hilfe dieses Buches. Sehr Empfehlenswert !!!Sorry, we failed to record your vote. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

Please try again Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Create one here. Take The Fifth, a manual transmission manual more. 1967 Mustang Specs. Title: Ford C4 Transmission Service Training (Course 7500.1 and 7501.3) step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild your entire C4 transmission. Rather in Adobe Reader (pdf) format to retain the exact look and feel of the original manual. 28 Jul 2017 Save this Book to Read ford c4 transmission rebuild manual PDF eBook at our Online Library. Get ford c4 transmission rebuild manual PDF file 18 Oct 2015 rebuild - ford c4 and c6 automatic transmission how to rebuild modify and c6 ford c4 transmission rebuild manual in pdf form then you ve come to the loyal. 2 Jun 2012 Diagnosis Guide. C4 Automatic Dual Range Diagnosis Guide..7- 9 1-3 in Dl and D2. No En2ine Brakin2 In First Gear-Manual Low Range.Specification. 3.. 4 Major Repair Operations. 29 Jun 2011 Ford's C4 Cruise-O-Matic and Select-Shift 3-speed automatic transmission is a light-duty unit It is one of the easiest automatic transmissions to rebuild and modify.Ford Small-Block Rebuild: Torque Specs, Sequences, and Alignment.,,,, Creators are allowed to post content they produce to the platform, so long as they comply with our policies. United Kingdom. Company number 10637289. Versions of the C4 have also been produced for big-blocks. The C4 was produced from 1964 through 1981 at Ford’s Sharonville, Ohio, transmission plant. An interesting footnote is the C4’s status as the first automatic transmission ever designed and actually produced by Ford Motor Company. It is one of the easiest automatic transmissions to rebuild and modify because it is so simple and there are a lot of seasoned racers and builders who know a lot about this transmission and how to get it to perform. There are different approaches as to how to build a C4 and what to put in it.

Seems everyone has a different opinion about how to build one for street and competition. Even with the best factory parts, the C4 is a hardy box that will serve you for years and thousands of miles with regular fluid and filter changes. As a drag racing automatic, there are a lot of drag-tested components out there designed to enable a C4 to withstand 600 to 1,000 hp on the quarter-mile, making the C4 competitive with GM’s legendary 2-speed Powerglide. Savvy transmission guys in the industry have told me they’ve seen a C4 take as much as 1,200 hp, though I wouldn’t suggest pushing a C4 that far. Anything beyond 600 hp presents risk, but that’s racing. Street and weekend-racing C4s can easily handle 250 to 600 hp without breaking a sweat. Performance Automatic’s hardened input shafts, as one example, are forged from 4340 steel and are engineered for up to 185,000-psi tensile strength, which matters greatly if you’re going racing. Ideally, you can find a complete 1971-or-newer C4 transmission core that already has these changes because very little changed through the end of C4 production in 1981. This means there is an abundance of C4 cores available from 10 years of production so you can build the kind of transmission you need for street or strip. From 1964 to 1966 came the Green Dot Dual-Range shift pattern transmission. In normal driving, the shifter should be positioned on the large green dot at the detent where the transmission does a routine 1-2-3 upshift. If you want to start out in second gear with the Dual-Range C4, you place the shifter at the small dot (off detent, next to neutral) where the transmission starts out in second gear and upshifts into final drive. The small-dot position was a feature designed to help motorists get started on snow and ice.It was known as Select-Shift, which meant a redesigned valve body that was used through 1969.However, the eight-bolt valve body does not work with the nine-bolt 1970-on case.

My best advice is to go with a 1970-on transmission case and valve body rather than try to mix the two. Because so many of these tags have been discarded by transmission builders through the years, identification often has to be determined in other ways. And in some instances, it really doesn’t matter because castings and parts speak for themselves with numbers of their own. What matters most is the case, bellhousing, tailshaft, tailshaft housing, and key internal parts like the forward clutch and input shaft. It must all work together smoothly and reliably, which depends on you using compatible parts. Identification can be determined through Ford casting numbers, date codes, and visual identification of these components. The stepped bell, also known as case-fill, has a sevenbolt (bellhousing-to-case) bellhousing that bolts to the front pump and is designed for compact and intermediate applications, though it can be installed in full-size cars and trucks. The case-fill has a dipstick tube provision in the left-hand side of the case, hence the term case-fill. This type is for heavy-duty applications in full-size cars and trucks.If you find a pan-fill C4 for your Mustang, Fairlane, Torino, Falcon, or Comet, it won’t fit. Seasoned transmission builders view the pan-fill C4 as the strongest case available. However, fitment is tricky to impossible in compacts and intermediates, which leaves you with case-fill only. When I ask transmission builders what they think of C4 versus C5 main cases, most take the C5 over the C4 when possible due to improved hydraulic circuitry and cooling. However, most also say there’s little difference between the two unless you’re building an all-out drag racing transmission. You may even use the stepped-case C5 with a 148-tooth flexplate for Mustang II and Pinto. Although finding an early-1964-only, five-bolt C4 bellhousing is a long shot these days, they’re out there and are quite valuable because so few remain. The problem is, a fivebolt bell does not fit a six-bolt block. Because the C5 has a locking-clutch torque converter for improved efficiency, the converter is wider and, therefore, needs a wider six-bolt bellhousing. If you use the C5 bellhousing on your C4 and try to fit it into a classic Mustang, you’re in for a rude awakening because it does not clear the tunnel. It does not match up with your flexplate, front pump, or starter either. Look for E2, E3, E4, E5, and E6 casting numbers on this bellhousing. It is just as easy to use a C4 bellhousing on a C5 case because you’re not going to be using a locking torque converter with C4 components. This is the case you want for compacts and intermediates like Mustang, Fairlane, Falcon, Torino, and Comet because it clears frame rails and headers. This particular C4 has a C4OP-D027-B B intermediate servo, which indicates a six-cylinder application. For improved performance, you want either the H or R servo and piston designed for full-sized Fords, or the C servo for 289 High-Performance V-8s. Because used C servos are hard to find, go with the larger-capacity H servo. Reproduction C servos are available from Scott Drake Reproductions and Mustangs Plus. The C4 was manufactured with a variety of bellhousing and flexplate configurations—157- and 164-tooth are the most common. You probably see more 157-tooths than anything because the C4 was installed in more compacts and intermediates than any other Ford transmission. The main consideration is to make sure you have a bellhousing and flexplate that match. Most of you know Pinto, Bobcat, and Capri were never factory fitted with a V-8. However, a few of us like V-8s in these classic subcompact Fords and Mercs. Whatever subcompact platform you choose for your project, you’re going to need the smaller 148- tooth bellhousing and flexplate. The blended-bell C4 does not fit a compact or intermediate unit-body Ford or Mercury due to frame rail and header clearance issues. It presents dipstick tube clearance problems in subcompacts, compacts, and intermediates. This blendedbell C4 has a C4OP-7D027-A A intermediate servo for V-8 engines. It is the most common intermediate servo you can find. But the A servo isn’t the one you want. Aim for an H or R servo cover and piston. If all else fails, one of the best sources is Transtar for new parts. For used parts like bellhousings, there are Ford specialty parts dealers around the country all too happy to help you. The C4 transmission employs a conventional fluid coupling known as a torque converter. The torque converter connects the engine’s crankshaft with the transmission’s input shaft via a fluid coupling, and it multiplies the engine’s torque under acceleration with a process as time-proven as a goodold- fashioned water wheel. With the shifter in neutral, the torque converter, input shaft, and forward clutch whirl around at the engine’s speed. Hydraulic fluid under pressure continues to circulate through the front pump, the torque converter, and return to the sump. Unless you place the shifter in one of three ranges, this is how the transmission operates with the engine running. From the manual shift valve on, it gets complicated. When power is applied, it flows to the forward ring gear, which drives the front planet carrier, which is splined to the output shaft. The front planet pinions then rotate clockwise and the sun gear rotates counterclockwise. As the sun gear rotates counterclockwise, you get clockwise rotation of the reverse planet carrier. Output shaft ring gear rotation is then transferred to the output shaft ring gear hub. If the selector is placed in Low, the low-reverse band is applied, which then makes engine braking under deceleration possible. Second gear also happens when you manually place the selector in second or Drive 2 (DR2). When this happens, there’s forward clutch engagement (already happening in first gear) and intermediate band application (second gear only). Power stops at the front-unit ring gear. The ring gear then rotates around the front planet gears, which are tied to the front planet carrier, which is tied to the output shaft. Front planet gears rotate around the stationary sun gear, which is connected to the input shell. The sun gear is held still by the intermediate band, which is locked around the reverse-high clutch drum. The reverse-high clutch drum is connected to the input shell. As both clutches are applied, the entire geartrain is turning in the same direction at the same speed meaning input and output shafts are turning at the same speed in the same direction. There is no gear activity in direct or final drive for a 1.00:1 ratio. One full rotation of the input shaft equals one full rotation of the output shaft. On the right is the more common stepped bell with a seven-bolt bell-topump bolt pattern. Both are for 157- tooth flexplate. Although five-bolt bells are scarce these days, they do exist and they can stump you if you’re not paying attention. The smaller five-bolt bell (left) is for five-bolt small-block V-8s prior to August 1964. The larger six-bolt pattern (right) was conceived for the 1965 model year to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness while also providing improved strength. Power flows to the input shaft through the forward clutch to reverse-high clutches and drum to the input shell, which is tied to the sun gear. The sun gear is driven by the input shell, which drives the reverse planet gears. The reverse planet pinion gears drive the reverse ring gear in the opposite direction. This gives you a 2.20:1 ratio (2.20 turns of the input shaft for every 1 rotation of the output shaft). And because there’s no real magic going on here, knowing what to use is a matter of doing what the experts who build high-performance C4 transmissions do. Because most of you reading this book are building street and weekend race transmissions, you’re going to want reliable feedback. This means you are limited to the stepped-bell, case-fill C4 for your less-than-large Ford. The news isn’t all bad however. All you have to do is fill it with C4 internals and make the necessary modifications, which are minimal. The blended bell, pan-fill C4 does not fit your compact or intermediate without serious compromise. But with the right combination of parts, a stepped-bell, case-fill C4 offers convenience and is capable of staying together at more than 600 hp. Unless you are committing your C4 transmission to full-time drag racing, you’re not going to need a manual valve body or a trans brake. The main focus of this book is street and occasional drag racing. Early C4 transmissions were vented with a steel tube from the center case on the lefthand side. This means the tailshaft housing is not vented. Reliability comes from a firm shift instead of a soft shift, where slippage and friction burning occur. You don’t want a harsh shift unless you’re going racing. The key to reliability is the type and number of clutch frictions and steel thicknesses you’re going to use, along with setting proper clearances. The most popular intermediate-band servos are the C, H, and R, which have the largest piston and bore size for maximum band pressure. The most common is the A servo found on most small-block C4s. Six-cylinder units have the B servo, which isn’t recommended. Transmission professionals I’ve worked with have proven the H and R servos provide the best intermediate-band apply pressure, which is based on having the largest cover and piston size. An added twist to servo selection is how quickly the servo releases the intermediate band during 2-3 upshifts. You want the quickest release possible at wide-open throttle without RPM flare. This is why the R servo is more favorable than the H, if you can find one. However, what also matters a lot with the intermediate band is how wide the friction area is coupled with the type of friction material. Drag racers prefer Kevlar and Blue intermediate bands because they hold and release better, and last much longer in tough racing competition. Kevlar makes very little sense for the street considering the cost involved and minimal benefit gained. And if you think you can bolt a C5 into your classic Mustang, Falcon, or Comet, keep in mind this bellhousing does not clear the transmission tunnel. Expect to see E2, E3, E4, E5, and E6 Ford casting numbers on C5 cases. The C5 differs with improved hydraulic circuitry and more generous oil flow. C4 band adjustments are coarse-thread and C5s are fine-thread. The C5 also has a deeper pan than the C4 along with a corresponding pickup. This short tailshaft housing is for an application where it is supported from above instead of a crossmember underneath. They just seem to keep going and going. The main concern is cavity and gear condition, along with proper operation of the pressurerelief and drain-back valves. Always replace the bushing and seal. The front pump is just that— a positive-displacement hydraulic pump that provides control pressure and lubrication. This means it doesn’t require much attention aside from inspection of gears, cavity, and valves, plus replacement of bushing and seal. Unless a pump ingests foreign matter or becomes cavitated during operation, there’s little chance of damage or extreme wear. There are other minor differences too numerous to mention. What you’re concerned with most is basic valve body types. They enable the valve body to apply more pressure to band servos and clutches. It is also the timing of clutch and band application and release that makes these kits so effective. From left to right are 164-tooth, 157- tooth, and six-cylinder. Not shown is the 148-tooth flexplate for Mustang II, Pinto, and Capri applications with smaller bellhousing.