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Some of the specifications, not published by the manufacturer and not available from other sources are results of my experiments, measurements, or calculations.You may find it highly personal and often opinionated: this is a luxury I can afford, not being related to any manufacturer or distributor, and not accepting any advertising at this site.I'll be referring to all as C-series cameras.The well-proven design has been reworked here from the ground up, starting from a similar (but slightly larger, more rounded, and more robust) body, flip-out LCD monitor, and entirely new, much improved, control system, largely borrowed from the E-20 SLR.These are the reasons why, after a careful market research, I decided to buy it, and after a few days of use — to keep it. And I'm glad I did.Thus, while addressing one of the few complaints I had about the '5050, Olympus created another, possibly even worse ones. The new model also uses a proprietary lithium-ion battery, not the widely avalable AAs. Read my extensive comparison of both models in another article, and then draw your own conclusions.Despite my complaints, I like the new model, but not quite as much as I like the '5050, if only by a slight margin.Not pocketable, but small enough to carry everywhere, while large enough for easy handling.This is just the increase I was asking for in my C-3000Z review.I would accept this even at the expense of the long end limited to 80 mm, although the 28-105 mm range would be better.Well, there is always a compromise between that ratio, image quality, maximum aperture, and the lens size; you cannot have all four to your liking. Olympus chose to get at least three of these factors right. Their own C-730Z offers a 1:8 zoom in a less expensive, 3MP camera, which may be just right for some purposes, but has lower image quality (and not just because of a smaller pixel count). http://www.transgusto.ch/userfiles/crontab-manual-linux.xml

c-5050z manual.

Let us remember, however, that higher pixel resolution needs, in order to be properly utilized, a higher-resolution lens. Will the lens developed for a three-megapixel camera allow us to take full advantage of a five-megapixel resolution?True, the camera looks better (and is more easily carried) with the lens retracted, but making it fixed would ruggedize the construction and remove the need for the lens-moving motor (one more thing which may go wrong, plus it causes an extra delay on power-up and -down).This does not seem like the best solution, and the only way to avoid the effect is to have a lens accessory tube (see the accompanying Accessory article) permanently mounted.Here the lever is placed on a collar around the shutter release button.Not that it makes any practical difference.This I don't understand: check almost any semi-decent rangefinder camera from the Sixties and you'll know what I mean. First of all, the magnification is too small.The latter consumes battery power, and may not very readable in bright light.Come on, this has been done in many rangefinder, film-based models.I wish the E-20 had one of these. Still, it does not have anti-reflective surface which would be very useful.They are getting better every year.This can be sometimes distracting; allowing to clear the field with a press of a dedicated button would be awfully nice.This is quite annoying.The monitor can face up to 90 degrees (i.e., horizontal) upwards and 20 degrees downwards. It cannot be swiveled to a side, but I don't consider it a real disadvantage, and the arrangement is more robust mechanically.To use the highest speed, I switch to the shutter priority mode to assure that the speed is actually used.It has two presets (the second one quite ugly) and two volume levels (both too loud); it can be also switched off.Autobracketing was already discussed in the Exposure Control section.Some users would appreciate the possibility of automated picture-taking at predefined time intervals. http://www.textmakareknutsson.se/upload/image/cronotermostato-vemer-top-manuale-istruzioni.xml

TTL metering will work just fine with filters and auxiliary lens attachments.This is good, but all digital cameras do that.The multi-spot mode uses the monitor to show the exposure scale with measurements along it. You may, or may not, use this feature, but it wasn't to costly to add, done entirely in software.Before the picture is taken, the live histogram is overlaid on the monitor image together with basic exposure information, and you can easily see if any image parts are exceeding the dynamic range. I wish my E-20, just one year old, had this feature!Logical and thoughtful: this is when you may like to adjust the exposure by turning the control wheel, and the histogram provides you with instant feedback.The position of that rectangle can be changed with use of the arrow buttons.Nothing left out.I find this offending.Even more useful when used together with the histogram preview (see above).First, pressing the shutter release halfway locks both the exposure and focus; this is like in almost all cameras I know.Holding the AEL button for a second or so locks the exposure for multiple frames: all pictures now will be taken at the memorized settings, until the AEL button is pressed again or the exposure mode is changed by rotating the main dial (or the camera is turned off). One obvious application is multiple frames for stitching into a panoramic image, but advanced users will find more uses for this feature.If you are serious about this feature, use a tripod to ensure that all frames are identically composed.I consider the new ISO 64 a nice addition, as it allows for higher-quality images — if the light allows.You can also fine-tune any of the presets and save it as one of the four custom settings.The system works surprisingly well, much better than in the E-20, and it delivers very pleasing results under domestic light bulbs and fluorescent lights (check my white balance article to see), where the auto setting leaves too much yellow for my liking. http://seasailing.us/node/4114

This is not only more accurate than the active systems found on most point-and-shoot cameras (which project an infrared beam on the subject), but also works with any lens attachments (wide-angle, tele, close-up).This feature, if you find it too distractive, can be disabled.While watching the subject in the viewfinder, I usually ignore the external LEDs, while a (defeatable) beep is very useful in deciding whether to press the shutter release all the way, or to give the autofocus another chance.Not too bad, but still.This seems to be the same flash as in the previous C-series cameras.Clearly, Olympus engineers do not read manuals prepared by their publications department, otherwise the error would have been spotted right away.I may be off by 10 or so (but so may be the flash itself).In the latter case, the built-in unit can be used to provide a fill light. Both units seamlessly integrate with the camera,This way, the built-in unit may provide, in addition to triggering the slave, a varying amount of fill light.In particular, this is not the diagonal of the image frame (an assumption mistakenly used in some depth-of-field calculations I've seen on the Web).In raw-to-JPEG conversion this information is converted to pixels, one pixel per photosite. This means that for each pixel one component is available from the corresponding photosite, while two others must be computed by interpolation from neighbors.I am quoting them after Olympus; my own estimates, based on a large statistics of images, are higher: 1:5 and 1:13, respectively (the same as the previous C-series cameras).Well, maybe some other users find this handy.This involves some degree of interpolation, very much like when you use an image editor to reduce the picture size.The camera firmware may do the interpolation on the raw red, green, and blue data, before it is merged (by interpolation, again) into a single matrix of RGB values.SQ1 allows you the choice of resolutions between 2 and 4MP, while SQ2 — of 1. http://klironomou.com/images/canopy-lite---5.7ghz-manual.pdf

2MP and lower. Both may have one of the two compression levels assigned.This leads to quite significant reduction in noise; more exactly, in one of its components (referred to as Type I in my E-10 noise article which includes a detailed discussion of the subject).Refer to a separate article for a detailed analysis of this subject.I'm using one 128MB SM card, and one 256MB CF as an overflow backup. From what I have read, the SM card will survive about ten times more rewrite cycles than CF, but I wasn't able to find any reliable source on this subject.This way you will reduce power consumption, and keep the drive safer (it is most vulnerable to shock when being accessed).This should matter only in case of ORF or TIFF files; for the JPEG format the differences do not have any practical meaning.I've tried it out with a 2 GB version, and the camera takes just 3 sec to write a raw file; twice as fast as the newer '5060 or '7070!With the AAs you can always get some emergency alkalines (even if they last shorter than NiMH). Additionally, you may use the same NiMH sets and charger to power all of your AA-driven gizmos.The latter accepts 100-220V and is flat, with folding prongs — something you may carry easily on travel (no bulk, no separate power brick).These have a form factor like the single-use CR-v3 (two AAs side by side), accepted by all C-series cameras starting form the C-2000Z. This means that you may use the new batteries in all Olympus C-x0x0 cameras.Wit these, your '5050 gets another power option. I have tested the RCR-V3 on the C-5050Z, and you may find the results here.And only then I got really impressed.The same set lasted for 416 frames and 2:44 hours with flash used every time at (what I believe was) about 75 of full power, quite a heavy load.Just incredible, even in 2004 terms. Full details are given in a separate article.Don't waste your money.The visual feedback is provided both in the top control panel and in the monitor itself.

The latter is briefly activated, to go off as soon as you let the button go.Luckily, there are two ways to change this to your liking.I have originally assigned mine to the ISO change, now I am using it to choose between various custom modes; another reasonable choice is the image size and compression.The controls of the C-5050Z are close to (or even at par with) those of the E-10 or E-20, and this is something. Those models may have a somewhat better feel of the controls, and more settings are externally accessible, but the menu system in the C-5050Z is superior to that of its SLR brethren.If not a switch release button, then at least a stronger indentation would help.I prefer the (very soft) release in the E-10 and E-20; once you get used to it, handholding longer exposures is much easier.Once you leave the shortcut screen (see above), the main menu is arranged into pages, each of which branches further into families of settings. The navigation is logical and easy, and readability high.The right arrow brings you to the full menu structure, while the three others serve as shortcuts to some particular settings. What is especially nice is that these three shortcuts can be redefined by the user.While this feature is activated, the monitor switches between image preview and settings display; i.e., it is always on.Well, I ended up not using it at all. First, increased power consumption; second, to switch it off I have to go to the bottom of the menu tree, a real hassle.I have received a couple of complaints on this subject from wildlife photographers, and they are right complaining.When shooting from a tripod, you have to use the infrared one, holding it above the camera so that the IR receptor will react to it.Please let me know if you find a country where the camera itself is not included.I've never used it in my cameras.You could do it equally well using an image-processing program, with more freedom of exact framing.

The same holds true for MacIntosh under OS9 or later.Well, you can juggle the cards between cameras, but this is also quite annoying.This is not a critical flaw, but an obvious oversight.Nice, if you plan to use it, and travel overseas.Therefore a TV can be used also for real-time viewing, which may be useful in some applications (like tabletop photography).Nice to have, if you need it.The C-5050Z aims, I believe, at a different market, so I doubt anyone will use this feature.Serious cameras do not even bother with this feature. I would gladly exchange it for just one more external settings button.I have seen some impressive results by others, though.A camera like this deserves much better.If you plan to have it for reference in your camera bag, you have to carry along the whole 200 pages, although your language takes only 50 of them. This, however, is not an issue, as the Basic Manual is so bad that you will want to leave it at home and forget about it. It contains nothing which you wouldn't figure by yourself playing with the camera for five minutes. Unfortunately, Olympus just went through the motions here.But the depth of coverage is very disappointing. The documents seems to be addressed to a person who does not want to know any reference information and wouldn't be able to comprehend it.For example, while two pages (!) are devoted to the process of inserting the AA batteries (and four explain how to insert a memory card), the non-trivial logic of memorizing, switching, and restoring settings is barely mentioned. The specification listing is a joke. And so on. This would barely make a mark as a basic manual for an entry-level snapshot camera, but not more. Sadly, the choice of the information to present is very poor.I would expect that with the U.S., England, and other English-speaking countries being by far the manufacturer's largest market, hiring a writer who knows the language, would only make sense. Not for Olympus. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

Maybe having them read some Nikon manuals would help?This one is not much better, clearly addressed to people who never before used a camera or a computer. While the program would make sense with an entry-level camera, bundling Camedia Master with the C-5050Z just offends my intelligence.Olympus offers a Photoshop ORF import plugin at their Japanese site.Some reports to the contrary which I've seen on the Web are either a misunderstanding, or relate to some older versions.In September, 2003 I received the Version 1.26, updated, to the best of my understanding, by Marian Krivos from Slovakia. This one works fine with the '5050 ORF files.The file can be downloaded from Marian's FTP server.If anything, the first results were better than I hoped for.This means that the image-processing circuitry is as good as it gets.As a matter of fact, the resolution seems to be at par with that of the E-20, and this is a lot. Maybe a formal test, with a measurement, will show some differences, but they are hard to spot in just visual inspection.There is a very some trace of sharpening effect (a white fringe) in the default sharpness setting, but this should go away when the internal sharpening is set to -1 or -2. (Refer to my image settings article for more on this.)I am also using the newer C-5060WZ, but for many uses I still prefer the '5050. If you can buy a refurbished one, it may be one of the best deals on the market.In my book, however, only two deserve a consideration along the C-5050Z.In my book the Olympus offering is a more attractive alternative.Besides, the Oly has a better build quality, and just feels right (which may be, of course a subjective issue). It also accepts generic AA batteries (the G5 does not!). While I have used the G-5 only occasionally, I clearly prefer the Olympus.In addition to a separate review of that camera, I have posted a detailed comparison of both. Surprisingly, the '5050 is in many, if not all, aspects better than the newer model.

Well, I would be glad to vote with my money for anyone's model, as long as it meets my needs and compares favorably to others. It just happens that Olympus succeeds most often in making me happy with what they do. Not always, mind it: their pocketable D-40 (known as C-40 in Europe) was a camera I disliked very much; the next day after buying it I took it back to the store. I am also not that thrilled with their electronic-finder cameras (but this I can say about all models in that class).After all, these are people who have used cameras before (which I find doubtful in case of some of the Web reviewers), and, more importantly, who have the equipment and procedures to run a full test — not just a semi-subjective evaluation like mine and many others.The magazine's conclusions are 100 in line with my impressions voiced above. Here are the highlights from the lab's results:From now on, please do not ask me about the C-5050Z noise issue.This is common to most digital cameras, but especially so for Olympus models, at least all I've tried so far. (If you want to compare, try an entry-level, 35 mm Minolta SLR.)Two of these are the Canon G3 and Nikon 5000 (which I have named as the major competitors to the Oly), the third one is the Leica Digilux I, which I haven't tried. The Olympus model comes on the top of this comparison.Oh, well, we're only human.I haven't been so impressed with a digital camera since the debut of the E-10 back in '2000.What you forgo, is the convenience and accuracy of image composition on an SLR's groundglass. Some people can live without it, some cannot.I already referred to it at the top of this review, and the full comparison can be found here.It looks like the demanding amateur user have moved to SLRs, and manufacturers just abandoned the advanced compact market. If you come across a second-hand '5050 in good shape (important!), grab it! Use the arrow pad to select a Press. Orange lamp: Shooting functions menu. Fixes the exposure.

The lock function is alternately activated and canceled each: Playback functions Green lamp time you press the button. DRIVE CAMERA tab DRIVE ISO AF target mark PICTURE tab Erase button ( ) MY MODE MODE MENU Erases a select. IfPhotography Photo Galleries Europe specifications Here is a priceDigicam's site. Interesting to read, it doesn't however contain test results. Wrotniak. It contains a detailed technical review, imageGo to the users'Page in German (English not available). Petric, a journalist) Results (note that the battery powerI have been following all of the discussions of noise, CA, aliasingI have also seen plenty of CA andI don't think the 'noise' isSuper. Macro mode and unlimited movie length (obviously limited by the mediaThe camera was set on continuousAll flashed shots were done withAnd again, theI used Olympus NiMH 1700mAh batteries. Moreover, about the details: ItIn addition,PRO thing, it has F1.8 glass!!!!!!!Comments ? Put them in the OlympusOlympusYou'll find samplesAuto ringflash. You'llC-5050, Canon G3, Minolta D7Hi, F71, Fuji S602 and Nikon 5700 isYou can see even with myISO values from 64 to 400 atFull size samples available. Olympus 5050 images taken at different settings. Basically he variedVery helpful to see how different settingsC5050 samples gallery. The gallery now contains C5050 images C5050 page. Full size originals available. All images however are resized -Images taken at ISO64, contrast -2,By Joann Miller. Noise seems less of an issue,I'm impressed by the sharpness of the images (they are quite sharp evenOther samples with a Hoya HMC polariser filter available here. All samples taken by Kane. These samples wereEither shoot at F4It's a site from Hong Kong and full size images are available (justComments ? Put them in the OlympusThis reduces substantially the noise in theIt is not perfect and willThe detailedThe camera noAs expected these settings are biased to aAgain the camera no doubt doesComments ? Put them in the OlympusI conducted. However this ISO400 noise reductionIn other words itISO and sharpening level; for instance at ISO 64 and sharpening -3 theKByteC5050 digital cameras. Developer Studio RAW converter. Not free, but it is getting very good feedback from those who are usingRAM. It works perfectly and is fast enough. Many of the new. RAW convertors like Pixmantecs Rawshooter Essentials and Phase One'sNote: you'll have to upgrade to Photoshop 7.0.1 before being able toRAW, TIFF, SHQ and HQ images. For RAW conversion he used the Adobe. Photoshop. RAW plugin. Comments: You can set saturation, contrast and sharpening. The ExifReader It opens the file in 16. RAW files either unprocessed, with a white balance adjustment or withGermanRAW format with a Canon D30 yet may still be enlightening in regardComments ? Put them in the OlympusHere are some results (time neededThe completeThere have been lot of cases,The card froze the camera aNote: a user reported no problemsSmartmedia or xD cards. Panorama Smartmedia feature Digital Accessories compatibility page: lists all accessories andThe firmware files are not available for download in the Internet -The latest firmware is v83. (This firmware is only available from. Olympus - you'll have to send the camera to Olympus for servicing toIt probably won't be worth the effort however.) Comments ? Put them in the OlympusSupermacro ResultsThe (full size) images were taken at ISO settings ranging from 64 toClick on an image and you will get theEXIF header (about 1 MB each). So the pictures are not focused to exactly the same point. You can seeI photographed my watch (Omega. Speedmaster. Professional) from the back. There is glass on the back so there mightSo far I am quit satisfied. With increasing ISOHowever the noise is relativelyIt's is up to you whatPersonally I found sharpening 0 to be theIn subjects which are notTo avoid this, use a diopter lens (macro lens). See the testSimply use a photo editor and set theIt might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected areaComments ? Put them in the OlympusConsider the followingIn the pictureSome users havePersonally I'm using a 43mmWigget's page on filters for further information on polariser,McCreary's page on filters Comments ? Put them in the OlympusProbably there is anDigital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infraredInfrared Photography page Olympus cameras. Information about infrared filters, exposure settings,Comments ? Put them in the OlympusDCF FE180Pro Fisheye lens Olympus 5050 users group Image sharpness: 2 samples in. JP folder of photosLevel of chromatic aberration (ifHow satisfied: Pretty satisfiedEye zooms when available By John Patston. Olympus 5050 users group No vignettingI think I'm seeing more tho,Daylight was on it's way out, but I did try a few using differentI thought at first that might be it, butLX Lens from www.ckcpower.com will be better. They should have testOlympus 5050 users group I compared it withJens Birch. Olympus 5050 users group Lens.8X I've been looking for a good lensSo far I have not found one that doesn't have. I have a Tiffen.56X (need step down ring to 37mm to attach). ItYou need to zoom to approximately 28mm toI still use it when I reallySometimes I'll convert these images toI have never even tried to zoom with thisBarker. Page with 40 images, 300x400 pixel size, no high resolutionFirst, a few words about the. WC-E68 wide angle converter: I'm absolutely in love with this piece ofThe Nikon supplied caseThe front cover cannot be screwed or held via clips, hence can getThe size and weight of the lensWC-E68 yet. This makes it easy to carry in a bag, and attached to theI also had owned, the WC-E68 has 6.6cm lens diameter whereas theOnce with the standard Oly CLA-1 lensI could notAttached with the CLA-1 and theOn a couple ofBut, as I said only slightly, hence it's not a deal breaker at all. The quality of the pics are soI will have to make dedicatedSo far I can only commentWC-E68's flatter response. I will do a lot more tests, shot in RAWI could post them here if thereIt's a keeper, kudos to. Nikon. Ali Boyacioglu. Olympus 5050 users group Meissner's page on wide angle lenses for the Olympus C-2100UZDigital Accessories compatibility page: lists all accessories andThis external flash unit offers everyting the more expensive FL-40 hasExternal. Flash Support. It contains an overview of external flash unitsThis is the answer I got back from Olympus: You should be able to use the strobes with no worries about the triggerMcCreary'page on external flash for Camedia cameras. Digital Accessories compatibility page: lists all accessories andComments ? Put them in the OlympusController works with the 5050: Close Media door, plugI found the software had set my camera toBewareIt's not free, but you might give it a try. X's Drive 2. Without HD (I had one already) the price was below 100. Euro. This thing comes with a fast USB2 interface and will read. Smartmedia. As far as I know thisVizor - burns cds from flash cards, spans discs for large cards,There are also portable storage devices, but the advantage of theThat's especially relevant on long trips. The disadvantage is that a subnotebook is bulkier and heavier than aWallet - a portable HD with a card reader with 3 - 20 GB capacity Image Tank review has a comparison of these differentComments ? Put them in the OlympusThe bag can also be carried with a belt. The smaller side bag (with a zip)Photography It's the PT-015 The PT-010 can't be used. Inspector Smart Recovery tool now supports JPEG, TIFF and RAW. FreewareChristian Grau has some softwareThe software used to be free,Recovery. It's free. This software packaga produces surprisingly good results. Comments ? Put them in the OlympusFreeware. Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using. QuotingIt's capableBecause small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying itEXIF viewer also displays imageSingle photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a fullI'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF dataQuoting from his site: C-5050Zoom Digital Camera with Linux. Tons of detailed informationMicheal Schubart contains a description on how to download photos fromThe procedureIf it breaks, expect an expensive repair bill by Olympus. He ordered the mode dial part,Gruener's test: he used a 5050 to take photos of the M45 starfieldWhat follows is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) compiled by. Jens Birch, based on questions asked in the Olympus 5050Will it improve the timelag betweenA: Olympus never released any official firmware for the C5050 and theyAlso, there are no observedCircular onesE-20 though). Q: How can I avoid the annoying beeping sound when turning ON byIn P, A, and S modes, you can only. A: The C5050 is known to have a too high sharpening of the pictures byA: There are many things you can do: The autofocus (AF) andAF and metering will be reduced by about 2 seconds. This is most easily done by aiming at an. That fixes the focus at the desired distance and the camera is set to. MF. This will significantly reduce the shutter lag. That will minimize the time that the just taken picture is displayedOtherwise it takes a long time to re-charge. A: Plug in an external DC power unit or a battery pack. You can alsoQ: How do I copy between cards in the camera. A: Change the Camera to Playback Mode, press OK, press right, go to the. Edit menu, press right, go to the Copy button, press right, selectA: The camera uses the card that was selected when it was connected toQ: How do I tell what firmware version I have. A: One way of doing it is to open a picture in a text editor such as. The number of the firmwareWindows XP, right click on on the image, then click on properties, thenA third method is to run theQ: How do I use a polarizing filter to best effect. A: The LCD normally compensates for the brightness of the scene whichTo see the effect on the LCD you mustLCD screen, when you are satisfied with the effect you must press AELThis is useful in sunny days when viewing the. LCD is difficult. Q: How high flash trigger voltage is the C5050 capable of handling. A: Several independent Olympus' tech staff stated that they willWe have not had any high triggerNote: a minimum of 6 VoltsQ: How to RESET my camera.NOTE: This reset is intended for technicians to use. This is done by:Q: My camera gives out-of-focus images. What is wrong and how can IOften, the camera decidesQ: What is a lens tube. A: A lens tube is the tube you attach to the camera body at the base ofC5050 (see another FAQ about that). Alternatively, you can get third party lens tubes from Raynox, SoligorMore info is compiled in the document:A: Generally a fast (faster than 17x) and large (256 Mbyte or larger)Q: When is it beneficial to use a polarizing filter on my camera. A: If a polarizing filter is rotated to the correct angle, it willYou also use it to reduce haze and glare in misty or polluted airQ: Where is the nodal point located. A: Distance from the center of the tripod socket: Hoya HMC (multicoated) clear, HMC Skylight, and HMC UV filters, SoligorQuestions ? Comments ? Put them inOlympus C5050 discussion group: a discussion group dedicated to the. Olympus C5050 digital camera Olympus 5050 Olympus 5060 McCreary's dpfwiw site: Excellent site on the Olympus CamediaGalbraith's site Interesting reading. What an avalanche of information!The only thing changing when you switch to this mode is that the AF aid lamp gets permanently turned off, i.e., it will no longer activate itself under low-light conditions.