Bytecc Usb Drive Mate Manual | Full EPub

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Setting the Access Point The next step in the process is to set the access point of the application. My BT-300 worked fine when used along with 2.5 in laptop hard disk (power cable connected to drive mate). On the other hand, I am experiencing serious issues using it with 3.5 in hard disks (power cable connected directly to hard disk and drive mate used as USB only). I tried to follow the procedure provided by the manufacturer (pdf file). Bytecc Usb 2.0 Drive Mate Windows 7 Driver First, the power cable connection allows the hard disk to spin as explained. Next, as I connect the USB cable I get the 3.5 in HDD to be identified by XP and can be removed safely as a USB mass storage device. Yet, after several minutes, no letter gets assigned to the drive and I am unable to access it's content since it doesn't show as a listed hard disk or removable device when I access 'my computer' with Windows Explorer. What am I doing wrong. I've just bought a device that allows you to connect external drives to a USB port, but I can't access the driver as it comes in a Classic installer. Plug and Play recognises the drive and installs the necessary drivers, but it fails to show up under My Computer. I bought a usb 2.0 adapter( Bytecc BT-300). Sensor andbluetooth (depending on the BT hardware installed). Hardware Type: Hard Drive. Model: BT-350. Compatibility:Windows XP, Vista, 7, 8, 10. Downloads: 35,089,716. The simplest way to get your MacBook to recognize this new drive--and therefore copy the files from your old drive--is to plug it in to a PC and format the drive. Bytecc Bt 300 Driver I was advised to format with FAT 16, as this would be recognized by my MacBook. Fortunately, the process was not that involved, since the Vista-driven PC found the drivers for the WD Scorpio Blue automatically. Live updater service. Once formatted, I safely removed the drive and plugged it into my MacBook via a USB port using a BYTECC Drive Mate. http://sofar-france.com/userfiles/crf250r-manual-cam-chain-tensioner.xml

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Casio FX991ES Plus Scientific Calculator Crafted with special features, this FX991ES Plus Scientific from Casio is a perfect. Casio Fx-991es Scientific Calculator. Casio fx 991es plus inverse matrix. May 24, 2018 - Information on CASIO cookies. We use cookies to optimize the functionality and content of our website and to adapt it to your needs as best as. Fraction calculations; Combination and permutation; Statistics (List-based STAT data editor, standard deviation, regression analysis); 9 variables; Table function. Would you like to try it too? Please try again later. I didn't receive any instructions with the adapter and I can't see what to connect to the adapter - nothing seems to have the correct connection - is there something else I need or have I got the incorrect adapter. Any help would be appreciated - thanks. It'll connect to the IDE connector on the adapter. Plug the HDD into the reader first, then plug in the USB. For desktop drives and SATA notebook drive, you will need to connect the power adapter. I am using it with Windows Vista and it's supposed to work with that. Any more help would be most appreciated, thanks. Do you see anything that has a yellow.If so, you need to remove it before putting it into the HDD reader. If it's clearly spinning and unreadable, you may need software or professional recovery to get the data from the drive if Windows won't read it. Do you happen to know any software programs that may help, I know professional recovery is expensive. Thanks again, and all help appreciated. Join our community and get entered to win a RTX 2060 GPU, plus more! Join here. The show is live August 11th at 2:30 pm ET (7:30 PM BST). Watch live right here! Click here! For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It came with no instructions. http://imagroupco.com/resources/original/crf250r-maintenance-manual.xml

Then connect the BT-300 adapter to the SATA hard drives. But I'm unsure about the instruction to plug in the power adapter after plugging into the data connector. Newegg.com has over 700 reviews of the adapter. I read the 40 most recent, going back about one year. The very last review, from a few days ago, suggests that the catastrophic problem reported by many reviewers is due to plugging the 4-pin Molex power connector in upside-down, because the construction of the socket allows it. I agree. That isn't directly relevant to my question, but needed to be mentioned. Among the 40 most recent reviews, I found three which discuss the order of plugging things in. Pros: Small and easy to use. Just be sure to plug in the power cable before the data cable. It could be due to you guys either a) plugging in the power upside down (it has an indication on the head itself which way is up.) or b) plugging in the power AFTER plugging in the drive (duhhhh, that will definitely fry the drive.The 4-pin Molex connector from the brick can either plug into the adapter or into a drive. So it is possible to plug in two of those three connectors without applying power. So, should I plug in the data connector first, then apply power, as the Bytecc instructions and the first reviewer say, or apply power first, and then plug in the data connector, as the other two reviewers appear to say. Why? -- Jeff, in Minneapolis This YouTube video might be helpful: I'm still wondering why the two reviewers on Newegg were so certain that the power must be connected first. -- Jeff, in Minneapolis I will post if I find anything. We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. There are two LEDs on the BT-300, a red one and a green one. Only the green one is lit and I believe I have properly attached the cable to the IDE connection at the back of the drive. When I try a second IDE drive, I get BOTH the red and the green LEDs lit. https://www.interactivelearnings.com/forum/selenium-using-c/topic/20441/eli-150-ecg-manual

Again, I don't see the drive in File Explorer. There is no documentation at all in the box with this device. I have no reason to believe the device is defective but I don't understand what the LEDs signify, especially the red one, and why I'm not seeing the drive on the computer. I expected to see a new drive, just as if I had put a flash drive in the USB port. Is that not what happens. I've never used one of these adapters before so I can only guess. Hmm, I just googled this device and found a very short PDF (a single page) which says 3.5 inch IDE drives need to be all be set as Master devices. Perhaps the red light is telling me that this drive is NOT a master?? Has anyone used this adapter. If so, could you confirm the meaning of the red LED and tell me if the drive connected via the adapter is supposed to show up in File Explorer like a flash drive or if there is some other way I'm supposed to see what's on it? All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. For IDE drives, however, whether of desktop or laptop size, the connection from the power module must go directly to the drive's 4-pin power input connector. For that reason, they designed the connector from the power module the same as a standard female 4-pin Molex power output from a PSU. For laptop-size SATA HDD's (which plug into the same SATA connector on the Bytec unit) the instructions claim that no power connection is necessary because all power required by the drive will be supplied by the USB connection between computer and Bytec. However, you don't have any of those to deal with now, anyway. If most of your old drives have no jumper diagrams on them, you should be able to get the info from the makers' websites by searching for the exact model number with the search terms Jumper or Master. If you get it wrong, it is highly unlikely that you will do any damage. https://www.formuladesign.com/images/canon-x10c-manual.pdf

It just won't give you access to the drive. Of course, you MAY find among all those old units some that actually have failed and will not give you data. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive. This device appears to be designed for use with ONLY ONE drive at a time. That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role. These drives have been unused for years and I no longer have the original computers, just the drives. I have also long forgotten how to set each one to Master, Slave or Cable. I can probably find that out via some googling for each drive. By the way, I suspect the reason the drives don't show up on my laptop with the cable connected is that they're not getting any power. I had assumed this cable was going to also power the drives somehow but now that I think about it more, I suppose that's not realistic. My drives are 3.5 inch. Hmm, I thought I refreshed this page a couple of minutes ago before I began typing this and your reply was the only one here. Now, I'm seeing additional replies that are dated two days ago. That's odd. But it confirms that a lack of power is why the drive does not show up on my laptop. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive. That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role.Where do I find them? 2. Thank you VERY much for confirming my suspicion that the lack of power was why I wasn't seeing the drive on my laptop. I just thought I'd try here first since it was convenient. I suppose I'd better start researching how to set each of the drives to Master. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive. That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role.

I disconnected the first drive when I didn't see it in File Explorer on my laptop, then connected the second drive. I didn't mean to give the impression that I had both drives connected at the same time. The adapter wouldn't allow that anyway but unless you had it in your hand, you wouldn't know that. On the question of LED meanings, I agree it's bad that the unit did not come with instructions to make that clear. My guess is that one (Red?) is to confirm the presence of power to the unit OR a connection via the USB cable, and the other (Green?) is to confirm a valid connection to a drive. Regarding two drives at once, I understand you did not do that.Unfortunately, my hard drives are a rather mixed bag. I found a YouTube video several hours back that suggested just what you said: that most hard drives had either text, or a diagram, or both indicating where the jumper had to be set the drive on Master but I'm not finding that on ANY of my drives, except one. They're all widely-used brands too, like Seagate and Maxtor, not obscure brands you've never heard of. I hope there will be diagrams somewhere for each of these models, even the very old ones, otherwise I suppose I'll just have to go with trial and error and hope none of my trials damages anything. As for the Red LED, I don't think your guess can be right. When I connected the two drives that I've already tried, neither one was powered at the 4 power pins. The first drive showed just a green LED, the second drive showed a green and a red. Both were 3.5 inch IDE drives. It seems more likely that the red is an indication that the drive isn't set to master and has nothing to do with power, otherwise BOTH drives should have shown a red LED. But maybe it means something else altogether. But I got nothing like that in the package. When I looked at the other end, I saw that it would fit over the 4 power pins of a hard drive. I also noted 4 pins recessed within the adapter itself so I (reasonably?

) assumed that my cord was supposed to be plugged into the adapter and that this would somehow power whatever drives I attached. I'd forgotten about the end with the 4 pins until I read the passage of the manual I just quoted. I disconnected that cord from the adapter and put it on my hard drive and the green LED immediately came on. I plugged the USB cable into my computer and got nothing. Then I moved the jumper over one position and tried again. I may have to do a bit of diddling to figure out the master setting for some of the drives but I'm much further ahead than I was a few minutes ago. Once again, talking your problem through with someone else has helped me solve a problem. Thank you for your help with this! All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong. All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong.Even if they had mentioned that there WAS a manual online, that would have been a start, although this particular manual left a lot to be desired. But all I got was a box with nothing inside at all beyond the unit, which tends to tell me that this is an item that is self-explanatory and you can't really go wrong. So, Murphy's Laws being what they are, I put it together in a way that seemed reasonable and got it wrong. Thanks a bunch BYTECC!;-) I don't actually have an old laptop drive to use with the adapter - yet - but it could happen. My old laptop - I just got a new one for Christmas - is on its last legs. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

As long as it keeps working, I can network it and access it that way but once it's toast, I'll probably need this adapter to access it and pull the old data off it. Then I'll have to figure out how to get the drive out and will see if I need a second USB cable for it. I'm probably not going to be able to get to all the 3.5 inch drives either; I'd forgotten that two of them were SCSI. I still have a SCSI cable somewhere but I'm not sure I have anything to connect it to an IDE or SATA connector. But I've already found a treasure trove of old source code that I really wanted to find so I'm already ahead of the game. I'm glad to hear that I'm unlikely to damage anything by putting a jumper in the wrong place. I had hoped that would be the case. Some of those drives are pretty darned old - the oldest was from my first PC, purchased in 1993 so I'm guessing the manufacturer may not clutter their site with manuals for such old drives - and trial and error may be my only option. Then again, if it's possible to make a reasonable-seeming assumption that is actually completely wrong, I'm often capable of making it, as I've already demonstrated The one mystery that remains unsolved is what the red LED means. I suppose I can always write Bytecc and ask. Perhaps they'll even answer in a way that is clear and comprehensible Until then, thanks again for your help. I don't actually know what the red LED means yet but I now have the adapter working and understand how it needs to be connected to a 3.5 inch IDE drive, which was my key difficulty. I suppose I essentially figured it out for myself but I can't select any of my own comments as the solution so I will chose Paperdoc's since our conversation got me closest to the answer. Thanks to ALL who replied; you were all helpful in helping me get to the solution! I don't actually know what the red LED means yet but I now have the adapter working and understand how it needs to be connected to a 3.

5 inch IDE drive, which was my key difficulty. Thanks to ALL who replied; you were all helpful in helping me get to the solution! Replies from many people with different ideas and ways of explaining them help people learn new stuff and understand the real issues. So I'm glad you understand that you did a huge part of the work here. Thanks for the Best Solution, and I understand that many others deserve that, too. Incompable? Incompable? We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Any returned computer that is damaged through customer misuse, is missing parts, or is in unsellable condition due to customer tampering will result in the customer being charged a higher restocking fee based on the condition of the product. Amazon.com will not accept returns of any desktop or notebook computer more than 30 days after you receive the shipment. New, used, and refurbished products purchased from Marketplace vendors are subject to the returns policy of the individual vendor. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Diane 1.0 out of 5 stars Did not last over 30 days. Afterward, power up the drives by connect the power adapter to the power cord that plug onto the wall. This worked for a while but performance was not consistent and eventually stopped working entirey. J-Electronics would not accept a return. Total rip-off.

It was easy to use, mounted the disk on the desktop (mac) as an external hard disk, and we were able to get those last few files that were more recent than the last backup. After noting that some people had power supply problems, we first plugged it in on its own, to make sure that it would not overheat or have other problems. Worked fine for us. It had been recommended by the tech guy at work, who uses one all the time to deal with various disk problems, but for the price (about 20 when we got it), I'm really glad to have my own interface at home.In a review of another product a purchaser expressed his likely towards this and stated the benefits which after doing my own research proved to be exactly what i wanted. I have used the device a few times already and its very easy to setup and get going unlike others which have some many other parts that you have to connect for each situation. Device works as expected.It works well and since there are three different adapter heads it works on any standard hard drive. Sata, IDE and I forget the other one.This item was so easy to use that I would have paid big money to do what I did for almost nothing (item cost). It took me a few minutes to pull out my old hard drive and even less time to connect this to my laptop and move all my data over to new pc. Buy this and save on time and money, I now use my old hard drive for extra storage because I have this device. It came with no instructions. So, should I plug in the data connector first, then apply power, as the Bytecc instructions and the first reviewer say, or apply power first, and then plug in the data connector, as the other two reviewers appear to say.However from what you've written above it seems you will probably need to plug the usb in last inorder to allow the disk to spin up. I would put the data in first then power or to be completly safe, return it and buy a magic bridge. Best piece of kit iv used highly recommend it. Hence it is not what I asked about. My only question is the order in which the connectors should be connected. I wondered because the instructions are so badly written, and then I discovered that two of the reviewers say quite emphatically that the power should be plugged in before the data connection. That sounds wrong, but no later reviewer remarked on any error. -- Jeff, in Minneapolis The instructions are clear. I don't know how you can connect a Molex connector wrong. The Molex connector can be plugged in upside-down. The most recent reviewer on Newegg.com said it is because the plastic used for the socket is soft rather than hard. I can't tell if that is the correct explanation without gouging away at the plastic, which I don't care to do. I already have a (AFAIK) perfectly good adapter. I'm not interested in buying another one that is virtually identical. I take it that nobody has any explanation why the second and third reviewers on Newegg quoted above said that the power must be connected first. -- Jeff, in Minneapolis I could be wrong but then again i cannot think of any other reason. Again, this isn't what I'm asking about. -- Jeff, in Minneapolis Discuss in The Lounge Poll History Computing.Net cannot verify the validity of the statements made on this. I went to StarTech.com web site looking for a driver for Windows 7 but when you go to their download section there is no driver to download. I tried contacting them by email well over a week ago and got no response even though when i completed there form to send the email it said I would get a reply within 48 hours. Does anyone know where I can get a driver for this set of cables that will make it work on Windows 7. I know that I can just open my computer and connect it internally but the reason I purchased these cables in the first place is so I will not have to do that. The driver cd that came with these cables does not have a driver that will work for Windows 7.After the scan, see if the drive shows up. If it doesn't, just reboot and it should show up. After the drive has been detected once, it will behave like a flash drive.Once I did that it now shows up. I thank you for helping me through this and jogging my memory.I pick up old computer that don't work, fix them up and find them new homes with families that cannot afford to purchase computer but need them for school work. Again; thank you. First, the power cable connection allows the hard disk to spin as explained. What am I doing wrong? If it has data on it already then it may be faulty.Also try another USB port, this sometimes works. Try the setup on another PC to check it is actually OK. Login to post I can feel the drive spin up but no drive designation. Hardware Type: Hard Drive. Download Size: 3.4 MB.It should be able to do the disks assuming they are still good. There are several places that sell them online. Bytecc BT 146 Floppy disk drive card reader Floppy USB 2 0 BT 146 Floppy. If it doesn't work on any PC you should probably return it. Though if this problem is exclusive to your PC there's somethings you can check: Tried adding SATA drive myself, but drive ''Not Recognized'' by Setup routine. Already have 2 small IDE drives running from BT-PSAPA. Don't have User Manual or CD. My problem is that I cannot determine why neither the SuperDuper program nor the MacBook itself. The simplest way to get your MacBook to recognize this new drive--and therefore copy the files from your old drive--is to plug it in to a PC and format the drive. I was advised to format with FAT 16, as this would be recognized by my MacBook. Magically, it now appeared on my MacBook Desktop and was recognized by the cloning software I was using, SuperDuper. Three hours later, the files on my old hard drive were successfully cloned onto the Scorpio Blue--except now I had an additional 364GB of storage space.There are unscrupulous dealers out there that sell the kits in separate parts to bump up profits. I hooked it up to my hard drive on desk top and then into a laptop and safely remove device tool came. WinME needs drivers for these devices unlike WinXP 2) The USB port is not giving enough power to the drive for it to run (a problem common in older PCs). I have an external USB harddisk that needs to use 2 USB ports in my old Dell laptop since 1 USB port can't supply the power it needs. The cable should have a dual-USB jack on one end, this is so you could use the power from the other USB port. Hope this helpsI can feel the drive spin up but no drive designation. I have use this app for years and I’ve just recently had this issue I cannot open it at all Answer questions, earn points and help others. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. All this is assuming these extensions will work in OS X. Hmm. Does it show up in Disk Utility, or System Profiler (under USB)? I suppose I could use it on a Windows PC, but that's beside the point as it's supposed to be Mac compatible. Not even a generic mention of it. I don't know what to tell you. It's eBay page says it supports Mac OS (Classic), not to be confused with Mac OS X. I suppose they never took the time to write drivers for OS X. I'd advise you to check the manufacturer's website, if they have one, anyway. I'm starting to think power is the issue with the 2.5in drive as there's no way to connect the mains adapter. You'd think it would be low powered enough to run solely from the USB port, but maybe not. Plug and Play recognises the drive and installs the necessary drivers, but it fails to show up under My Computer. It's listed under Device Manager by its serial number, yet remains inaccessible. I've read elsewhere that installing the extension GeneIOUSBIDE230 might help, but it doesn't appear to have made any difference. Plug and Play recognises the drive and installs the necessary drivers, but it fails to show up under My Computer. It's listed under Device Manager by its serial number, yet remains inaccessible.Windows can only read FAT and NTFS drives. You might consider picking up a copy of MacDrive. I also tried running TransMac and some QuickRecovery thing designed for Mac drives. Both of them are useless. Thanks for all your help anyway, it's much appreciated. I disconnected all my USB peripherals except for the keyboard and mouse and then reconnected the bridge hooked up to the laptop drive. This time it appeared in System Profiler, but still wouldn't mount in Finder or show up in Disk Utility. System Profiler identifies the BSD name of the drive as 'disk1' so I thought I might be able to try mounting the drive manually via Terminal. Trying to mount specific partitions e.g. disk1s2 doesn't work either. Am I at least on the right track? If I had to guess I'd say the drive was underpowered. Do you have another Mac you could try it in? No-one I know owns a Mac either - philistines the lot of 'em! No-one I know owns a Mac either - philistines the lot of 'em!I've instructed Disk Utility to try to repair the disk and it's making a real meal of it (the stripy barber's shop progress indicator pole is revolving indefinitely without actually reporting success of any kind). This isn't looking too hopeful but I'll keep plugging away to try and repair the drive. The drive itself seems to be beyond repair, formatting, repartitioning and so on, but that was the least of my concerns so I'm a happy rabbit. Thanks again for all your help. The drive itself seems to be beyond repair, formatting, repartitioning and so on, but that was the least of my concerns so I'm a happy rabbit. Thanks again for all your help.Although it does successfully mount other 2.5HDs, it doesn't mount the one I need it to. Can you explain to me what you did to solve your problem please? As advised I got myself a powered external caddy and then went through the trial and error process of mounting and unmounting it, and connecting it via every single USB port - those on the back of my Mac Mini as well as the ones on my USB hub. Before doing so I unplugged every non-essential USB device to ensure the drive would not be competing for power or other resources. Then I loaded up Data Rescue II and followed the standard instructions for scanning the drive for salvageable files. It was a very frustrating experience, but persistence paid off in the end. About a month too late to be of any help I received a reply from Seagate's tech support dept which may be of assistance to you. With regards to your query, I understand that the subject drive is inaccessible on another computer. Note: Seagate do not support connecting Internal drives via USB External Enclosure. However, if your Seagate PATA drive is not detected when connected via USB using External Enclosure, put the jumper on 'Cable Select' and check if it is accessible. Else remove the jumper to make it a slave and try connecting the drive directly to the computer, if it is accessible then the drive is fine. Please make sure that the drive is formatted according to the required file file system on that computer. Title: PC and Mac File Systems Overview URL: If you want to use the drive on mac, please follow the steps provided in the following URL to format your drive on MAC: Title: Formatting an Internal or External hard drive using Mac OS URL: Still you want to work with the drive being connected via USB and if it is not detected please contact the External Enclosure vendor. If this does not solve the issue please contact our Online Technical Support for further assistance. Due to the nature of your particular problem and the need for interaction, contacting Seagate directly via telephone will provide you with a quicker and more appropriate resolution to your issue.